the Fortress

In the heart of Zapotec culture in the ruins of Mitla, we witnessed a traditional ceremony for the equinoxe in the beginning of Semana Santa.

Following the ritual, we met Luis Armando who extended a casual yet intriguing invitation to horse ride to "La Fortaleza" in the mountains nearby, a site lesser-known but rich with history.

In the following days, we agreed to meet on the morning of April 1st.

The adventure started at Luis and Liliana’s ranch. We met Juan Carlos, an enthusiastic local archaeologist, who arrived in a tuc-tuc : he would be our guide to the fortaleza.

We followed Liliana for breakfast while Luis Armando readied our horses. She shared tales of her childhood and her return to Mitla, setting a warm tone for the day.

We then mounted and followed Juan Karlos through town, our horses following his vehicle at stepping pace, while we raved about their softness and confidence with strangers.

On the way, we saw one of Juan Karlos' daughters hopped into the tuc-tuc to join the excursion.

The ride took a challenging turn when a small, brown horse appeared midway to our destination, as we engaged in a path outside of town.

Displaying surprising aggression, it attacked our horses, causing a commotion and challenging Juan Carlos to manage the situation…

I hadn't mounted a horse in ages, and the last I did I was carefully led by my friend and horse owner within the fenced prairie by which my house stood in Israel… This was an entirely new setting and I wasn't sure I could so much as trot when I sent my horse ahead to avoid aggression!

On his side, Glen had to dismount a few times as his horse suffered the wrath of our unwanted road companion, headbutting, spinning and kicking.

The encounter with this spirited animal added an unplanned challenge, but Juan Carlos managed to diffuse the tension, allowing us to focus once again on the road.

It wasn't until we reached a small natural water spring that we both dismounted carefully and tethered our horses in the shade. The little brown horse determined to keep our horses company, found it the right time to roll in the mud…

With introductions with Sarah behind us, we began our ascent on foot towards "the Fortress".

There, Juan Karlos shared its history as both a military stronghold and a residential community, leading us through the expansive terraced slopes and imposing stone walls telling stories of a society that had thrived and adapted over centuries.

La Fortaleza itself was a sight to behold. Perched atop a rocky hill at the eastern end of the Valley of Oaxaca, the site was historically significant, serving as both a military stronghold and a residential community.

As we walked within the ruins of the fortress and the remnants of houses made of mud brick, earthen materials and pottery chards, Juan Carlos enriched our understanding, explaining how these structures had evolved to meet both defensive needs and the daily lives of its inhabitants.

After exploring the fortress's extensive layout and marveling at its strategic vantage points, we made our way back down to the spring.

The little brown horse, now seemingly calmer, watched us with curiosity. It followed us back to the ranch, now a quiet companion in the journey.

Saying goodbye to our hosts and horses, our day concluded with a visit to Juan Carlos's office, where he displayed a impressive collection of artifacts from The Fortress—human bone fragments, jade jewelry, obsidian tools, a gigantic ceramic vessel almost intact—each telling a story of ancient trade and cultural exchange across Mesoamerica.

Reflecting on our excursion, it was more than just a visit to an archaeological site; it was a day filled with personal stories, unexpected challenges, and profound historical insights.

Thanks to the hospitality and knowledge shared by our hosts and guides, our experience was deeply enriched, connecting us to the enduring legacy of the Zapotec civilization.

~ Genevieve & Glen