Zapotec Weaving in Mitla (Tejido Zapoteco)

That afternoon, returning to our hostal after a full day spent walking through the ancient Zapotec ruins of Mitla, rescuing a donkey on our way to swim in the Hierve de Agua natural pools, visiting the ancient Zapotec tomb of Xaaga and the Prehistoric caves of Mitla, we thought we were in for a good rest... But our hosts Socorro and Alberto were ready to present us with a new discovery: it was time to visit the weaving workshop of their son, Armando!

Continuing our exploration of Mitla, we were eager to learn more about the Zapotec culture and traditions.

Weaving is indeed a family affair in Mitla, and it was fascinating to see the last two generations of weavers at work. Armando, now a skilled weaver, had learned the craft from his father Alberto. Together with his son Angelo, they were carrying on the family tradition.

Socorro led us to the building right behind the hostel, where we could see some of the wooden pedal looms from our bedroom window. These looms were a constant presence in the daily life of Mitla, the wooden pedals and turning wheels tapping and chanting in ryhtm throughout the village's streets, and it was a privilege to witness their work firsthand.

When we arrived, Armando was in the process of setting one of the frames, using the "mayas," the heddles, to lift selected warp threads and create intricate "grecas", the adorning patterns found on the walls of ancient Zapotec ruins all throughout Mitla. For this particular frame, he needed to mount 1500 of these heddles, and three more frames would be necessary for the specific design he was preparing to mount on a loom.

As we watched Armando work, we also had the opportunity to meet his son Angelo, who was equally passionate about the "tejido" work. Although still learning to maneuver the pedal loom, Angelo told us he was also experimenting with the more delicate belt loom in his spare time.

We spent about an hour in the workshop, also discovering the beautiful design work of Janette, Armando's wife. Like Socorro, she dedicated herself to creating clothes, both traditional and modern, using the famous Mitla "tejido."

Our visit to Armando's weaving workshop was a rich experience! I felt so privileged finding myself surrounded with the giant wooden looms... It was like going back in time! That experience left with a newfound appreciation for the craftsmanship and dedication that goes into creating these colorful textiles but also for the incredibly rich cultural heritage of Mitla and the enduring power of tradition...

~ Genevieve