Day 1009 of our journey... March 23, 2024.

Our visit to Xaaga began with a mix of curiosity and confusion. As we arrived, we were greeted by the sight of a crumbling hacienda, its mud bricks and stucco facade giving little hint of the ancient Zapotec site we had hoped to explore. The entrance was unassuming, a gate seemingly opened to accommodate a truck, the only immediate sign of activity. This wasn't the large, well-marked archaeological site we'd anticipated; instead, it seemed more a local, ongoing project, and we initially wondered if we'd even be allowed to enter.

Approaching a few workers restoring the site, we met Luis—an architect working with INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia), not in charge but assisting the locals in restoring the site of their ancestors. Luis explained that the hacienda, now in ruins, was built directly over the sacred Zapotec site we'd come to visit, as part of the Spanish conquest. This practice, aimed at both utilizing and erasing indigenous culture, was a common strategy across Mexico, where sacred sites were often repurposed to impose new religious orders​.

There was no signage indicating the site was closed to the public, but the partially closed gate and the nature of the work being done suggested as much. However, Luis, seeing our interest quickly reassured us that he could show us around and provide more depth to what we were seeing.

Our conversation with Luis deepened as we shared our experiences visiting other ancient sites across Mexico and Central America, noting the pattern of conquest through architecture. Eager to share more, Luis invited us to follow him to a part of the site not visible from the entrance: the underground tomb preserved beneath the hacienda. He explained that he could lead us safely, ensuring both our safety and the protection of the structure, while giving us a glimpse into the true historical and cultural significance of the site.

Descending into the dark chamber below the hacienda, we were immediately struck by the familiar Zapotec designs carved into the stone, as we had first discovered them a few miles away, in the ancient Zapotec site of Mitla.

The walls featured the iconic Zapotec "grecas", including a square spiral, a motif that carries profound symbolic meaning. In Zapotec cosmology, this square spiral represents the cycle of life. This pattern culminates in a hooked form representing death and the soul's journey into the afterlife​​.

This motif's presence in the tomb underscored its sanctity and the continuity of life, a central theme in Zapotec spiritual beliefs. These designs not only decorated their sacred spaces but also served as metaphysical maps, guiding the spirits and connecting the living with the divine​.

The tomb, Luis told us, was a crucial piece of the indigenous heritage of the area, miraculously preserved under the weight of colonial history. Known for their intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs, such tombs were central to the Zapotec belief system, often seen as gateways between the living and the dead.

This unexpected turn in our visit to Xaaga not only enriched our understanding of the complex layers of history and culture in Mexico but also highlighted the vital role of local communities and experts in preserving and reclaiming their ancestral legacy.

~ Glen